ART 109: History of Fashion Design
E-Books
- Colors in FashionColor speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance, exclusion, convention, and subversion.
- Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of DressThis book explores the history of fashion displays, highlighting the continuity of past and current curatorial practices. Comparing and contrasting exhibitions from different museums and decades-from the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 to the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2011 and beyond-it makes connections between museum fashion and the wider fashion industry. By critically analyzing trends in fashion exhibition practice over the 20th and early 21st centuries, Julia Petrov defines and describes the varied representations of historical fashion within British and North American museum exhibitions.
- Fashion and Materiality: Cultural Practices in Global ContextsFashion is intimately tied to the material world. With a focus on diverse cultural practices, this book offers new insights into the dynamic relationships between fashion, bodies, and material culture. In a series of original case studies, both historical and contemporary, the collection explores how fashion and clothing affect articulations of body and self, experiences of time and place, and the shaping of social and local/global relationships. With chapters from leading international scholars, Fashion and Materiality takes the reader from the study of clothing and biography and an early modern "foreign dress" collection to Chinoiserie clothing in 18th-century Europe and fast fashion production in today's China. The book also examines fashion's role in nation-building, entanglements between style and migration across clothing donations for Syrian refugees in Germany, and the circulation of "refugee chic" on international fashion runways. Scrutinizing the dense connections between fashion, clothing, materiality, and humanity, the book shows how the material interacts forcefully with the personal and political.
- Fashion Curating: Critical Practice in the Museum and BeyondAs the practice of fashion curation extends into commercial galleries, public and retail spaces, and even the individual self, professional curating concepts are changing rapidly. Everyone can seemingly curate today, but where does this leave the traditional understanding of curation as clothing is collected and displayed in a museum? This thought-provoking volume explores the practice of fashion curating in the 21st century, bridging the gap between methods of display and notions of curatorial fashion exhibitions, commercial settings, and the virtual world.
- The Fashion Forecasters: A Hidden History of Color and Trend PredictionThe fashion business has been collecting and analyzing information about colors, fabrics, silhouettes, and styles since the 18th century - activities that have long been shrouded in mystery. The Fashion Forecasters is the first book to reveal the hidden history of color and trend forecasting and to explore its relevance to the fashion business of the past two centuries. It sheds light on trend forecasting in the industrial era, the profession's maturation during the modernist moment of the 20th century, and its continued importance in today's digital fast-fashion culture. Based on in-depth archival research and oral history interviews, The Fashion Forecasters examines the entrepreneurs, service companies, and consultants that have worked behind the scenes to connect designers and retailers to emerging fashion trends in Europe, North America, and Asia.
- Fashion History: A Global ViewFashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. This groundbreaking book argues that fashion has occurred throughout history in cultures beyond the West. It explores the geographic places and historical spaces primarily neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time. Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe.
- The Great Fashion Designers : From Chanel to McQueen, the Names That Made Fashion HistoryOver the last 180 years, designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best fashion journalism, including the author's interviews with designers. They begin with 19th-century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and conclude with the star names of the 2010s; Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights to capture the spirit of their times. This beautifully illustrated revised edition features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele, and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated to reflect a constant ferment fashion world, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon - and designers have emerged as actual celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explore their passion and flair to show us fashion at its most inspirational.
- House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern InteriorSince Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in displaying fashion. House of Fashion provides a complete historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior. It demonstrates how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele.
- Paris Fashion: A Cultural HistoryParis has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with style, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is more than just a history of great designers.
- Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and FutureSustainable Fashion provides a unique and accessible overview of the past, present, and future fashion ethics and sustainability issues. This book is the first to situate today's eco-fashion movement in its multifaceted historical context, investigating the relationship between Fashion and the environment as far back as the early nineteenth century. Employing an expanded definition of sustainability that also considers ethical issues, Farley Gordon and Hill explore each stage of the fashion production cycle, from the cultivation of raw fibers to the shipment of the finished garment. Structured thematically, each of the six chapters is dedicated to discussing one major issue, from recycling and repurposing to labor practices and the treatment of animals. Including interviews with eco-fashion designers, Sustainable Fashion will appeal to students and scholars of Fashion and students of design, history, and cultural studies.
- Wartime Fashion: From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939-1945A comprehensive analysis of Second World War dress practice and appearance, this study places dress at the forefront of a complex series of cultural chain reactions. As war conditions changed lives, dress reflected important visual narratives regarding class, gender, and taste that would significantly impact public consciousness of equality, fairness, and morale. Using new archival and primary source evidence, Wartime Fashion clarifies how and why clothing was rationed and repositions style and design during the war about past expectations and ideas about clothes and fabrics. The book explores the impact of war on the dress and appearance of civilian women of all classes in the context of changing social and economic infrastructures created by the national emergency. The varied research elements combined in this book form a rounded and definitive account of the dress history of British women during the Second World War. This is essential reading for anyone with an active interest in the field, whether personal or professional.
Print Books
- 20,000 years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment
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This scholarly, absorbing history of dress, an updated edition of a 1966 reference work, ranges from prehistoric costume through present fashion. From antiquity to the 14th century, the outfit was generally long, loose, and draped, not nationalistic, and reflected magical and religious functions. From the 14th century, when costumes became short and fitted, to the 19th century, clothing acquired personal and national characteristics. - The Business of Fashion: Designing, Manufacturing, and Marketing
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Revised to keep up with the quickly evolving landscape of the fashion industry, the fifth edition of this authoritative text offers updated information on the design, manufacturing, marketing, and distribution of fashion products within a global context. Research-based content provides insight into the organization and operation of textiles, apparel, accessories, and home fashion companies and the effect of technological, organizational, and global changes on every business area. Updated discussions of technologies, corporate social responsibility, and sustainable practices are incorporated throughout the text. - Fashion since 1900
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From Belle Epoque tea gowns through Dior's 1947 'New Look' to the impact of the Internet and fashion blogs, this comprehensive, international survey explores the significant developments in fashion, accessories, hairstyles, and makeup from 1900 to now. It focuses on critical movements and innovations in style for both men and women and explores these through the work of the most original and influential designers and couturiers. Chapters are organized chronologically to highlight crucial shifts in style and significant world events. Exciting and, at times, revolutionary advances in fashion are placed within economic, political, and cultural contexts. This new edition is brought up to date with a chapter that discusses, among many topics, the importance of new fashion centers in India and China, the dominance of the high street, and how fashion is now so multicultural and fast-moving. A reference section includes an extensive bibliography, making this an invaluable survey for all interested in modern and contemporary styles. - The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering Twentieth-Century Women Designers
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This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet who have been largely forgotten. While names such as Charles James, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, and Calvin Klein are familiar, their once-eminent forebears have been largely erased from the canon of fashion history in the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, who dressed the likes of Josephine Baker and Ella Fitzgerald, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. - Kimono Refashioned: Japan's Impact on International Fashion
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Kimono Refashioned explores the kimono's impact on the fashion world from the 1870s to now. Featuring works from the renowned Kyoto Costume Institute, it includes Japanese and Western designs, men's and women's apparel, and exacting and impressionistic kimono references. Kimono has influenced global fashion since Japan opened in the late nineteenth century. Motifs used to decorate the kimono, its form and silhouette, and its two-dimensional structure and linear cut have all been refashioned into various garments. Kimonos revealed new possibilities in clothing design and helped to lay the foundations of contemporary clothing. - Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and The Future of Clothes
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What should I wear? It's one of the fundamental questions we ask ourselves every day. More than ever, we are told it should be something new. Today, the clothing industry churns out 80 billion garments annually and employs every sixth person on Earth. Historically, the apparel trade has exploited labor, the environment, and intellectual property. And in the last three decades, with the simultaneous unfurling of fast fashion, globalization, and the tech revolution, those abuses have multiplied exponentially, primarily out of view. We are in dire need of an entirely new human-scale model. Bestselling journalist Dana Thomas has traveled the globe to discover the visionary designers and companies propelling the industry toward a more positive future by reclaiming traditional craft and launching cutting-edge sustainable technologies to produce better fashion.
